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Monday, July 31, 2023

Everything you need to know about working remotely in Leh: Tips and Insights

Balancing Productivity and Serenity

In this post, I will provide a comprehensive guide to working from Leh, including everything from accommodation recommendations and connectivity to renting bikes and more. 

In the post-COVID world, the work landscape has witnessed a significant shift towards remote work. As offices adapt to new norms, the work from home culture has emerged as a transformative trend. With this change, professionals have seized the opportunity to break free from traditional office spaces and explore the prospect of working from serene hills and picturesque destinations. The allure of remote work, coupled with the charm of hill destinations like Leh, Ladakh, has opened up a world of possibilities for a unique and enriching workcation experience. 

With my organization shifting towards a fully work-from-home (or work-from-anywhere) setup, I too took a stab at remote working from locations beyond my home. Ladakh had been lingering on my mind every since remote working became a possibility. However, having already visited this majestic land as I mentioned in my introductory blogpost, I was aware of the many challenges it posed and was skeptical. 

In June 2023, I started scouting for my next workcation destination and researched various places all around India (and even abroad). With monsoon at the doorstep, a lot of options went out of the door right away. After days of self-bickering, I meticulously sketched out an elaborate plan for McLeod Ganj. I had every detail planned out and ready to be executed on my spreadsheet, including flight details, places of accommodation, cab fares, bike rentals, list of cafes to visit, and so on. However, after deep rumination, I decided against it due to the potential landslides and flash floods in Himachal. In hindsight, this turned out to be a wise decision as rain wrecked havoc all over Himachal with record-breaking intensity in the following week. 

Dejected, I almost abandoned the idea of my next expedition when the destination that perennially sat at the back of my mind glowed with renewed intensity and allure. It made perfect sense. I was yearning for a trip in July and Ladakh appeared to be one of the safest places to avoid monsoon rains in India (that destiny and climate change had different plans is a different story for later). Summer in Ladakh lasts from April to July, with July typically being the warmest month. Without further delay, I opened up a new spreadsheet to chalk my plan out on and started digging into every piece of information I could find online about working from Ladakh. As much as I love to travel, I am a rather paranoid traveler and like having everything planned down and as per my liking to the T . Over the next couple of days, I digitally ploughed through every hotel, hostel, and homestay available in and around Leh. Enough back story. Let us jump right into specifics.

Choosing a place to stay and work

Strong Wi-Fi was the primary prerequisite, so I began my search with a focus on this aspect and narrowed down based on other requirements. Most establishments in Leh now offer decent Wi-Fi connectivity; something that was frustratingly sporadic until a couple of years ago. However, it is advisable to have a friendly word with the owners before shortlisting a place. Politely ask for a screenshot of the Wi-Fi speed, along with checking on other queries that you might have. As we were planning to stay for nearly 2 weeks, my priority was to find an apartment. From previous experience, I've found out how an apartment is more convenient for a working long-stay. Sadly, I wasn't able to find any in Leh. 

If you're only planning a vacation, there are plenty of delightful homestay options and hotels - almost all of which are really pretty. Recently, there has been a flourish of grand luxury hotels (we were absolutely astonished to see some of them). However, I would highly recommend - especially if its your first time in Leh - to opt for homestays or modest hotels. Each homestay is more beautiful than the other and comfortable than most 4-star properties in other cities. Plus, you will get to experience the best of Ladakh and its warm-hearted people by staying in a homestay. On my previous visit, we had opted for a homestay throughout. This time my preference was a hostel, which I thought would be more conducive to work.

Let's look at some accommodation options.

Hostels

Leh offers a variety of excellent hostels perfect for a workcation, including the popular choices like Zostel and goSTOPS. Here are a few more options that caught my attention, each equally enticing:

After exploring numerous options, we ultimately settled on Gutur House by Robinhood Co-Living, which I felt was the best fit for us. It turned out to be a great choice and truly exceeded our expectations. The location is ideal, just a short 5-minute ride from the main market (perfect if you've rented a bike for an extended stay) and yet offering a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere away from the chaos of the town.

Gutur house by Robinhood Co-Living
Wi-Fi connectivity is robust throughout the property with ample backup support. Designed to support digital workforces and long-term travelers, Gutur House offers dorms and private rooms starting from ₹ 850/night, complete with 24/7 hot-water supply. Don't forget to inquire about any long-stay discounts they may offer. Additionally, the place provided designated common areas perfect for work. The host was exceptionally accommodating to all of our requests. The in-house kitchen serves delicious food and offers plenty of options. They have partner restaurants in the market to order from at a discount. I'd highly recommend Gutur House for digital nomads, backpackers, and the likes.

Before making your pick for stay, consider a few factors like proximity tp the main market, Wi-Fi (in rooms/dorms and common areas), reliable power backup, ample space to work from and take work-related calls, food options, and so on.

Homestays

The number of accommodations in Leh has tripled since my first visit, and during this trip I saw dozens more properties under construction. I explored a lot of options and found plenty of good ones. Here, I've only included the places where I stayed so I be absolutely sure about the experience.

  • Goji Villa: I had stayed in this property on my first visit to Leh. Run by Mr. Tashi and his family, Goji Villa offers spacious and comfortable private rooms, an in-house kitchen with a dining area that doubles up as a recreational space, and a lovely garden. The dining area on the upper floor offers stunning views. The owners are excellent hosts and were extremely welcoming and helpful. Tashi ji can even help you plan and arrange your entire tour. Currently, they aren't accepting online bookings but I'd be happy to share their contact details with you.
Goji Villa
  • Tongspon Inn: This is where we stayed towards the end of my second trip, as we did not want to miss out on a homestay experience. The place offers spacious and airy rooms with a view to die for. The hosts, Agyal family, have their own organic farm and they serve fresh and healthy meals directly sourced from it. They even gave us a tour of their lovely farm. The entire family is lovely and warm, and you would have a great time interacting and staying with them.
Tongspon Inn

Both places are conveniently accessible from the main market and the airport (Goji villa is a 10-minute walk), but again away from the hustle of the crowds. Moreover, both offer strong Wi-Fi connection and excellent food options.

Now that the stay is covered, let me guide you through a few other practical details

Your work-from-leh checklist

In my previous blog post, Leh Travel Guide: Preparing for the trip, I had provided a lot of information on the prerequisites. Here, I'll elaborate more from the point of view of a workcation and otherwise.

Mobile connectivity

While all the places recommended above offer strong Internet connectivity, it is better to have backup just in case. Additionally, you will need mobile connectivity outside of your place of living. Due to its strategic location, the government has imposed restrictions on prepaid SIM cards from outside of Ladakh. Buying a prepaid SIM card from the operator's office or from local market cab be a lot of hassle and the requirements keep changing. Your best bet is to carry an Airtel or Jio postpaid connection. Personally, I procured a Jio eSIM connection before travelling and enjoyed high-speed 5G connection in 95% of areas I traveled to. You will get 4G connectivity even in Nubra up to Diskit and Hunder on a Jio SIM.

Essential documents

Carry multiple ID cards, as you will need to submit an original copy when renting a bike. It's also advisable to keep photocopies of your IDs handy (although digital copies are accepted at most places now). Ample cash is recommended, as there are only a few ATMs in Leh city, which might be crowded on busy days. Although almost all places now accept UPI payments, having cash is the best option, especially if you plan to visit remote areas.

Carry multiple ID cards, as you will need to submit an original copy when renting a bike. It is also good to keep photocopies of your IDs handy (although digital ones are accepted at most places now). It is advisable to carry ample cash, as there are only a few ATMs in Leh city, which might be crowded on busy days. Also, almost all places now accept UPI payment, but if you're planning to visit remote areas, carrying cash is the best option. 

Renting a bike in Leh

Embarking on an exhilarating bike adventure through the breathtaking landscapes of Ladakh is on the bucket list of many. While it poses its own challenges, renting a bike offers an unparalleled experience of freedom, allowing you to conquer the winding mountain roads, feel the cool breeze on your face, and embrace the thrill of riding amidst the Himalayas.

There are plenty of bike renting agencies spread all across Leh city, but mainly scattered near the market area. In my previous blogpost, Ladakh Travel Guide: Preparing for the trip, I had shared tips on how to spend your first two days acclimatizing to high altitude. Accordingly, you can spend the evening of Day 1 exploring the market for bikes. Nowadays, almost all tour operators and hotel owners have their own associations, so even they can arrange a bike for you. But if you're the exploring types, you will love to hunt for one yourself based on your requirement and comfort. 


Models and pricing

Most bike rentals offer a bunch of options including multiple models of Royal Enfield, with Himalayan being the most popular option currently. If you're only planning to stay in Leh for your workcation and venture not too far, you can also rent automatic scooters like Activa. Rent starts from ₹ 800 per day and goes up to ₹ 2000 depending on the model and condition of the bike. 

What do check?

Before renting the vehicle, make a thorough inspection of its condition, wear and tear, and take a quick test ride. Click pictures from multiple angles or record a video covering the bike from all angles and make sure you capture scratches and dents if any. Share these pictures/videos with the rental agency before renting out the bike. This will act as proof in case they later accuse you of causing any damage to the bike. Also, make sure your rented bike is registered commercially wit the RTO of Leh-Ladakh and has a yellow number plate. 

Required documents 

You'll obviously need your driving license to ride across Ladakh. Additionally, you'll have to keep an original copy of another ID proof with the rental agency, so remember to carry your PAN card, Aadhar card, or voter ID card. You'll also need to submit a digital/Xerox copy of your ID to obtain inner line permits. Furthermore, check if the vehicle's RC, PUC, and insurance documents are available.

Accessories, gear, and fuel

Your rental agency will provide helmets, but it's advisable to invest in your own riding gear, including knee caps, elbow caps, and jackets, especially if you're covering far-off areas like Nubra through Khardong La pass and Pangong through Chang La pass. For local sightseeing and commuting, a helmet is sufficient. There are plenty of shops in Leh market where you can buy or even rent riding gear.

While the vehicle might have minimal fuel at the time of renting, you can easily fill up the tank at local petrol pumps based on your requirements. Remember to get the tank filled up before embarking on longer routes.

Most bikes come with pre-attached luggage carriers, and additional carriers and saddlebags can be attached if needed at an added charge of around ₹ 100 per day.

Note: Self-driven cars are banned in Leh. Although some agencies might offer them illegally, it is best to avoid engaging in such activities. Remember that the region is a border area, and flouting rules can attract heavy fines and/or punishment.

Closing thoughts

After spending nearly two weeks on my workcation in Leh, I can confidently say that the experience of working from this high-altitude paradise is unlike any other. While the stunning landscapes and serene ambiance provided a unique backdrop for my daily tasks, it's essential to acknowledge that working at high altitudes comes with its set of challenges.
The demanding weather conditions, with sudden temperature fluctuations and unpredictable elements, sometimes made it challenging to maintain focus and concentration while working. Additionally, the lack of oxygen at high altitudes can affect productivity and energy levels, necessitating regular breaks for acclimatization. Simple tasks like running errands in between work or hopping to a cafe proved to be more challenging than in usual settings, reminding me of the need for flexibility and patience in adapting to remote environments.
However, overcoming these challenges was a rewarding part of my journey, as it taught me the value of adaptability and appreciation for the majestic beauty that surrounded me. Working from Leh has been an unforgettable experience, and it's a place where the boundaries between work and leisure blur, offering a perfect blend of productivity and wanderlust.

Tuesday, July 25, 2023

Ladakh Travel Guide: Preparing for the trip

Things to know before planning a trip to Ladakh

Discover the enchanting land of high passes. Get to know what this magical land entails and what you should know before planning a trip.

Introduction to Ladakh:

Nestled in the heart of the mighty Himalayas, Ladakh is a land of surreal beauty and ancient wonders. Often referred to as the "Land of High Passes," this region boasts breathtaking landscapes, from rugged mountains to serene lakes and picturesque valleys. The unique blend of Tibetan Buddhism and vibrant Ladakhi culture adds a spiritual charm to this remote and enchanting destination. Trust me, Ladakh will mesmerize you like no other place. I always urge people to choose and explore Ladakh instead of an abroad destination.

Local Culture and People:

Ladakh's culture is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism, reflected in its numerous monasteries, stupas, and prayer flags that adorn the landscape. The Ladakhi people are extremely warm and hospitable and add a touch of genuine warmth to every traveler's experience. They will go out of their way to help you with anything you require and make you comfortable. I, personally, have had a wonderful experience interacting with the lovely people of Ladakh.

How to Reach Ladakh:

By Air: The easiest way to reach Ladakh is by air. The Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport in Leh is well-connected to major Indian cities. As of July 2023, the functional airport is rather small with just one terminal, and limited entry points and baggage counters. However, a new state-of-the-art, multi-level terminal is under construction and should be functional by the end of 2023.

The current terminal does not have a lounge, but has one eatery in the waiting area and another near the gates after the security checks. It has ample charging points.

By Road: Adventurous souls can opt for a road trip to Ladakh. The region is accessible from Srinagar (Jammu and Kashmir) or Manali (Himachal Pradesh) via scenic mountain roads. The roads are generally open from May to October, depending on weather conditions. By travelling from Manali, you can also cover the Atal tunnel, while via Srinagar, you can cover Kargil, Dras, Lamayuru, Nimmu, and a few monasteries on the way.

With unpredictable weather and increasing instances of landslides, it is better to avoid going by road in the months of June to August.

By Train: While Ladakh doesn't have a railway station, travelers can take a train to Jammu Tawi or Chandigarh and continue their journey to Leh by road or air.

Permits and Regulations:

Certain areas in Ladakh, especially border regions, require inner-line permits for non-Indian citizens and some Indian citizens. Be sure to check the latest permit requirements and obtain them in advance to explore restricted areas. Instructions on obtaining the permits are covered in a separate blogpost.

If you're booking your tour through an agent, your package should typically have the inner line permits included. Each traveler would require to provide ID proofs to get permits.

If you're planning your trip on your own, you can procure the permits from any of the multiple shops near the main market area. We bought the permits from the same shop that we rented our bike from. You can tell them all the locations you're planning to travel and they'll provide you permits for all those locations. This typically range anywhere from ₹ 500 to ₹ 800 per person depending on the number of locations.

What to Carry:

When packing for Ladakh, keep in mind the fluctuating weather. Pack warm clothing, especially if you're traveling during the colder months. Essentials include comfortable shoes, sunglasses, sunscreen, lotion, a hat, and a reusable water bottle to stay hydrated. For colder weather, you can also carry thermals and woolen socks. While there are medical shops in the Leh market, it is advisable to carry basic medications.

Carry multiple ID cards, as you will have to submit an original copy while renting a bike. It is also good to keep photocopies copies of your IDs handy (although digital ones are accepted at most places now). It is advisable to carry ample cash. There are a few ATMs in Leh city but they might be crowded or run out of cash on busy days. Also, most places accept UPI payment now, but if you're planning to visit remote areas, cash is the best option. 

Health and Acclimatization:

Ladakh's high altitude can cause altitude sickness, so it's essential to acclimatize gradually upon arrival. Take it easy during the first few days, drink plenty of water, and avoid strenuous activities. Diamox is the best and most recommended option to tackle altitude sickness. Typically, you should begin the medication 24 hours before arriving in Leh and continue for 48 hours after arrival depending upon the need.

Personally, we only took Diamox only on the day we reached Leh and on the day we were to cross the Khardung La pass, which is at a height of 17,582 ft. Do consult your doctor in case you are on other prescribed medication.

Preparing for the Trip:

Plan your Ladakh adventure by booking accommodations in advance, especially during the peak tourist season (May to September). Research and create an itinerary that aligns with your interests, whether it's trekking, visiting monasteries, or simply soaking in the stunning landscapes. Do remember that weather and road conditions are extremely unpredictable and change every day. So, be prepared to be flexible and consider the high possibility of your tour not going as per plan.

Personally, I would recommend flying directly to Leh by air and acclimatizing for the first two days. Take a morning flight and spend the first day resting in your hotel room. You will feel breathlessness and light headed at the beginning. If you're feeling better, you can step out in the evening to explore the local market for shopping and for making arrangements for the rest of your stay including procuring a rental bike, permits, and so on.

You can dedicate your second day for light travel within Leh city and cover all major nearby attractions. These include Shanti Stupa, Leh palace, and a few monasteries.

Responsible Travel:

As a responsible traveler, respect the local culture, traditions, and environment. Dispose of waste properly, refrain from littering, and support local businesses and artisans during your stay.

Closing Thoughts:

Get ready to be spellbound by Ladakh's ethereal beauty and immerse yourself in the spiritual aura of this extraordinary destination. In the upcoming posts, I'll share my personal experiences and tips, unveiling the hidden gems and cherished moments from my journeys in this Land of High Passes.

Your Ultimate Guide to Leh, Ladakh

Embracing My Remote Dream and Sharing the Unfiltered Journey

In a world full of Instagram-happy travelers who only paint a bright picture, regardless of how horrible a place may be, I have endeavored to be as real and honest as possible. The intention is to be genuine and truthful amidst the prevalence of idealized travel portrayals on social media.

The magical land of Ladakh

Welcome to 'The Introverted Traveler,' where solitude meets adventure starting with the breathtaking landscapes of Leh, Ladakh. Join me on an extraordinary journey as I delve into the realm of remote work, embracing the dream I've cherished for years. Amidst the majestic mountains and serene valleys, I finally found my perfect work+vacation escape. Or did I?
As an introverted traveler, I'll share the raw and unfiltered experiences of my time in this ethereal land. From remote work challenges and triumphs to soul-stirring encounters with local culture and nature's wonders, my blog uncovers the untold stories of a wanderer seeking solace in far-off corners.
Get ready for captivating tales, stunning visuals, and heartfelt reflections as I navigate the delicate balance between personal introspection and the thrill of exploration. Whether you're an introvert seeking travel inspiration or a curious soul curious about Leh, Ladakh's hidden gems, this blog promises an authentic and heartfelt narrative.

I have had the pleasure of journeying to Ladakh not once but twice. My initial trip spanned over nine glorious days, where I explored the region's enchanting beauty and its most renowned landmarks. From the captivating Nubra Valley and the mesmerizing Pangong Lake to the offbeat gems of Turtuk, Zanskar, and the myriad monasteries and villages scattered around Leh, I delved deep into Ladakh's heart.

My second venture was an invigorating workcation, where I seamlessly blended work and leisure (or at least tried to). I dedicated a significant portion of my days to my professional endeavors, all while soaking in Ladakh's serene ambiance. Throughout my stay, I hired a bike which allowed me to venture effortlessly and explore the lesser-known corners, cafes, and landmarks in the evenings and on weekends. With this blog, I will try to address every query you might have - whether you're planning to go on a workcation or a full-fledged trip. I'll share insights, tips, and cherished moments from both my trips, empowering you to embark on your Ladakh adventure with confidence and delight.

Working with an enchanting view
So, come along on this immersive voyage—where the power of solitude and the allure of adventure converge—capturing the essence of remote work amidst Ladakh's untouched beauty. Let's embark together on a journey that celebrates the magic of embracing dreams and the courage to share an honest traveler's tale.
Discover the Enchanting Land of High Passes in My Ladakh Travel Guide. In this comprehensive guide, I'll share insights into Ladakh's unique geography, the warmth of its people, and practical tips on how to reach this remote paradise.

Everything you need to know about working remotely in Leh: Tips and Insights

Balancing Productivity and Serenity In this post, I will provide a comprehensive guide to working from Leh, including everything from accomm...