Balancing Productivity and Serenity
In this post, I will provide a comprehensive guide to working from Leh, including everything from accommodation recommendations and connectivity to renting bikes and more.
In the post-COVID world, the work landscape has witnessed a significant shift towards remote work. As offices adapt to new norms, the work from home culture has emerged as a transformative trend. With this change, professionals have seized the opportunity to break free from traditional office spaces and explore the prospect of working from serene hills and picturesque destinations. The allure of remote work, coupled with the charm of hill destinations like Leh, Ladakh, has opened up a world of possibilities for a unique and enriching workcation experience.
With my organization shifting towards a fully work-from-home (or work-from-anywhere) setup, I too took a stab at remote working from locations beyond my home. Ladakh had been lingering on my mind every since remote working became a possibility. However, having already visited this majestic land as I mentioned in my introductory blogpost, I was aware of the many challenges it posed and was skeptical.
In June 2023, I started scouting for my next workcation destination and researched various places all around India (and even abroad). With monsoon at the doorstep, a lot of options went out of the door right away. After days of self-bickering, I meticulously sketched out an elaborate plan for McLeod Ganj. I had every detail planned out and ready to be executed on my spreadsheet, including flight details, places of accommodation, cab fares, bike rentals, list of cafes to visit, and so on. However, after deep rumination, I decided against it due to the potential landslides and flash floods in Himachal. In hindsight, this turned out to be a wise decision as rain wrecked havoc all over Himachal with record-breaking intensity in the following week.
Dejected, I almost abandoned the idea of my next expedition when the destination that perennially sat at the back of my mind glowed with renewed intensity and allure. It made perfect sense. I was yearning for a trip in July and Ladakh appeared to be one of the safest places to avoid monsoon rains in India (that destiny and climate change had different plans is a different story for later). Summer in Ladakh lasts from April to July, with July typically being the warmest month. Without further delay, I opened up a new spreadsheet to chalk my plan out on and started digging into every piece of information I could find online about working from Ladakh. As much as I love to travel, I am a rather paranoid traveler and like having everything planned down and as per my liking to the T . Over the next couple of days, I digitally ploughed through every hotel, hostel, and homestay available in and around Leh. Enough back story. Let us jump right into specifics.
Choosing a place to stay and work
Strong Wi-Fi was the primary prerequisite, so I began my search with a focus on this aspect and narrowed down based on other requirements. Most establishments in Leh now offer decent Wi-Fi connectivity; something that was frustratingly sporadic until a couple of years ago. However, it is advisable to have a friendly word with the owners before shortlisting a place. Politely ask for a screenshot of the Wi-Fi speed, along with checking on other queries that you might have. As we were planning to stay for nearly 2 weeks, my priority was to find an apartment. From previous experience, I've found out how an apartment is more convenient for a working long-stay. Sadly, I wasn't able to find any in Leh.
If you're only planning a vacation, there are plenty of delightful homestay options and hotels - almost all of which are really pretty. Recently, there has been a flourish of grand luxury hotels (we were absolutely astonished to see some of them). However, I would highly recommend - especially if its your first time in Leh - to opt for homestays or modest hotels. Each homestay is more beautiful than the other and comfortable than most 4-star properties in other cities. Plus, you will get to experience the best of Ladakh and its warm-hearted people by staying in a homestay. On my previous visit, we had opted for a homestay throughout. This time my preference was a hostel, which I thought would be more conducive to work.
Let's look at some accommodation options.
Hostels
Leh offers a variety of excellent hostels perfect for a workcation, including the popular choices like Zostel and goSTOPS. Here are a few more options that caught my attention, each equally enticing:
After exploring numerous options, we ultimately settled on Gutur House by Robinhood Co-Living, which I felt was the best fit for us. It turned out to be a great choice and truly exceeded our expectations. The location is ideal, just a short 5-minute ride from the main market (perfect if you've rented a bike for an extended stay) and yet offering a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere away from the chaos of the town.
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| Gutur house by Robinhood Co-Living |
Before making your pick for stay, consider a few factors like proximity tp the main market, Wi-Fi (in rooms/dorms and common areas), reliable power backup, ample space to work from and take work-related calls, food options, and so on.
Homestays
The number of accommodations in Leh has tripled since my first visit, and during this trip I saw dozens more properties under construction. I explored a lot of options and found plenty of good ones. Here, I've only included the places where I stayed so I be absolutely sure about the experience.
- Goji Villa: I had stayed in this property on my first visit to Leh. Run by Mr. Tashi and his family, Goji Villa offers spacious and comfortable private rooms, an in-house kitchen with a dining area that doubles up as a recreational space, and a lovely garden. The dining area on the upper floor offers stunning views. The owners are excellent hosts and were extremely welcoming and helpful. Tashi ji can even help you plan and arrange your entire tour. Currently, they aren't accepting online bookings but I'd be happy to share their contact details with you.
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| Goji Villa |
- Tongspon Inn: This is where we stayed towards the end of my second trip, as we did not want to miss out on a homestay experience. The place offers spacious and airy rooms with a view to die for. The hosts, Agyal family, have their own organic farm and they serve fresh and healthy meals directly sourced from it. They even gave us a tour of their lovely farm. The entire family is lovely and warm, and you would have a great time interacting and staying with them.
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| Tongspon Inn |
Both places are conveniently accessible from the main market and the airport (Goji villa is a 10-minute walk), but again away from the hustle of the crowds. Moreover, both offer strong Wi-Fi connection and excellent food options.
Your work-from-leh checklist
In my previous blog post, Leh Travel Guide: Preparing for the trip, I had provided a lot of information on the prerequisites. Here, I'll elaborate more from the point of view of a workcation and otherwise.
Mobile connectivity
While all the places recommended above offer strong Internet connectivity, it is better to have backup just in case. Additionally, you will need mobile connectivity outside of your place of living. Due to its strategic location, the government has imposed restrictions on prepaid SIM cards from outside of Ladakh. Buying a prepaid SIM card from the operator's office or from local market cab be a lot of hassle and the requirements keep changing. Your best bet is to carry an Airtel or Jio postpaid connection. Personally, I procured a Jio eSIM connection before travelling and enjoyed high-speed 5G connection in 95% of areas I traveled to. You will get 4G connectivity even in Nubra up to Diskit and Hunder on a Jio SIM.
Essential documents
Carry multiple ID cards, as you will need to submit an original copy when renting a bike. It's also advisable to keep photocopies of your IDs handy (although digital copies are accepted at most places now). Ample cash is recommended, as there are only a few ATMs in Leh city, which might be crowded on busy days. Although almost all places now accept UPI payments, having cash is the best option, especially if you plan to visit remote areas.
Carry multiple ID cards, as you will need to submit an original copy when renting a bike. It is also good to keep photocopies of your IDs handy (although digital ones are accepted at most places now). It is advisable to carry ample cash, as there are only a few ATMs in Leh city, which might be crowded on busy days. Also, almost all places now accept UPI payment, but if you're planning to visit remote areas, carrying cash is the best option.
Renting a bike in Leh
Embarking on an exhilarating bike adventure through the breathtaking landscapes of Ladakh is on the bucket list of many. While it poses its own challenges, renting a bike offers an unparalleled experience of freedom, allowing you to conquer the winding mountain roads, feel the cool breeze on your face, and embrace the thrill of riding amidst the Himalayas.
There are plenty of bike renting agencies spread all across Leh city, but mainly scattered near the market area. In my previous blogpost, Ladakh Travel Guide: Preparing for the trip, I had shared tips on how to spend your first two days acclimatizing to high altitude. Accordingly, you can spend the evening of Day 1 exploring the market for bikes. Nowadays, almost all tour operators and hotel owners have their own associations, so even they can arrange a bike for you. But if you're the exploring types, you will love to hunt for one yourself based on your requirement and comfort.
You'll obviously need your driving license to ride across Ladakh. Additionally, you'll have to keep an original copy of another ID proof with the rental agency, so remember to carry your PAN card, Aadhar card, or voter ID card. You'll also need to submit a digital/Xerox copy of your ID to obtain inner line permits. Furthermore, check if the vehicle's RC, PUC, and insurance documents are available.
Your rental agency will provide helmets, but it's advisable to invest in your own riding gear, including knee caps, elbow caps, and jackets, especially if you're covering far-off areas like Nubra through Khardong La pass and Pangong through Chang La pass. For local sightseeing and commuting, a helmet is sufficient. There are plenty of shops in Leh market where you can buy or even rent riding gear.
While the vehicle might have minimal fuel at the time of renting, you can easily fill up the tank at local petrol pumps based on your requirements. Remember to get the tank filled up before embarking on longer routes.
Most bikes come with pre-attached luggage carriers, and additional carriers and saddlebags can be attached if needed at an added charge of around ₹ 100 per day.
Note: Self-driven cars are banned in Leh. Although some agencies might offer them illegally, it is best to avoid engaging in such activities. Remember that the region is a border area, and flouting rules can attract heavy fines and/or punishment.
